It’s also been a trend among hoteliers for a while and Leslie Stronach, Executive Chef at the InterContinental Bangkok, has long sung the praises of the city’s street food, as has Martin Faist at Absolute Hotel Services in the Thai capital. And a stamp of approval recognised in 2015 when Michelin launched a guide – but no stars – for Hong Kong and Macau street food.
Street food is about variety and freshness served with little fuss. But while each street hawker specialises in just one recipe, professional kitchens can deliver exotic dishes from all over the world to the buffet table. Flavours have always fused, so that Vietnamese cooking merged with French baguettes to form the banh mi (local sandwich), and today Mexican tacos can happily carry Asian spices.
It’s popular because it’s associated with fun. Travellers feel adventurous eating with local people; squatting on plastic stools by hawker carts in Hanoi with a banh mi is a badge of pride for backpackers. So when diners find good street food served up in hotel buffets, they associate it with leisure, pleasure and adventure.
Bringing street food into the spotlight, Singapore has an annual World Street Food Congress, and the UK has its own ‘Oscars’, the Street Food Awards. The Bourdain Market, named after the globe-trotting TV chef, is looking for partners and investors to bring high quality street food to New York.
Street food was designed to feed large numbers cheaply and efficiently, but it is loved by people from all walks of life. A 2007 study from the Food and Agriculture Association put the number of people eating street food every day at 2.5 billion. The fact that rich and poor alike enjoy it means it adapts very well to professional kitchens.